4th January 2020

It was a bit of a damp start to the day but at least I was out of the wind under the Lochnagar cliffs. Fairly fresh Westerlies were blowing over the top. It was mild – Plus two degrees centigrade at 950 metres this morning and there was a lot of water running, last bits of ice falling and I heard a bit of rockfall as well. Not much of a view as the cloud was down so a lot of the photos look a bit blurry – this was down to the visibility being poor. All the routes are broken now with rocks coming through in the easy gullies. Conditions have really stripped back to patches around the rims of the corries and down the main gully lines. No change tomorrow  – continuing mild with the freezing level above the tops and fairly windy.

It was a waterproofs on, hoods up kind of day.

Giving it a go…more fun than watching TV. Two climbers at the bottom of Raeburn’s Gully 200m II ****

Looking up Douglas-Gibson Gully 200m V, 4 ** First Grade V gully to be climbed in Scotland in 1950.

Looking across the boulder field to Black Spout – not much to get excited about at the moment…

Lochnagar and its triple lochans. Also Meikle Pap (980m)


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